Sunday, December 30, 2012

The Origins of Chintz


Chintz is a cotton fabric printed with vivid overall floral patterns.  The word comes from the Hindi “chints”  which means “spotted.”    In slang the word "chintz" and "chintzy" can often mean something vulgar or gaudy.
 
Chintz was originally wood-block printed cotton produced in India. Merchant ships brought return cargo of Indian chintz back to Europe and the fabrics proved to be very popular.

  

By the late 17th century more than a million yards of chintz were being imported into England every year. With imported chintz becoming so popular English mill owners grew concerned as they did not have the textile printing technology to manufacture chintz.   The issue was so serious to the economy of England that the English Parliament enacted a law in 1720 that forbade "the use and wearing in apparel of imported chintz, and also its use or wear in or about any bed, chair, cushion or other household furniture." 


Dutch and French textile mills produced reproductions of Indian designs, and later created their own original print designs.

 


Saturday, November 24, 2012

Inspiration - 1810 Fashion Plates


  Some incredible  Ackermann's Repository  Fashion Plates from 1810.
Beautiful shawls and cloaks plus the only man's fashion plate I have ever seen in Ackermann's.
 
1810 - Ackermann's Repository  January Issue 


1810 - Ackermann's Repository  January Issue


1810 - Ackermann's Repository   February Issue


1810 - Ackermann's Repository  February Issue


1810 - Ackermann's Repository March Issue


1810 - Ackermann's Repository March Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository  April Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository  April Issue

1810 - Ackermann's Repository May Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository  May Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository  June Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository June Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository July Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository July Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository August Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository August Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository September Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository September Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository October Issue 



1810 - Ackermann's Repository  October Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository November Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository  November Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository December Issue



1810 - Ackermann's Repository December Issue

Friday, November 2, 2012

The Three Quilts that Inspired Afton Warrick's Tree of Life.

The tree of life motif became fashionable when Indian cotton textiles such as "chintz"  were imported to Europe in the 17th century.  Very often the tree of life, or a stylized version of it, was a popular applique or "broderie perse" quilt design of quiltmakers from the late 1700's to the early 1800's. Broderie Perse is French for "Persian Embroidery" and is a style of applique using printed elements cut from fabric to create a design on a background fabric.

December, 2008 - Tree of Life
International Quilt Study Center & Museum  2007.034.0001
Circa 1790-1810



Winterthur Museum Item #1958.0108
Circa 1810-1813


International Quilt Study Center & Museum Item #2008.040.0182
Circa 1790-1810

In addition to the stylized tree of life and fanciful birds the borders include  the popular chintz fabics of the period. 

This overall style was known as chinoiserie, from the French word 'chinois,' meaning Chinese as these popular images were inspired by art and design from China, Japan and other Asian countries.

Afton Warrick of Albuquerque, New Mexico submitted her version of the Tree of Life.  Her quilt is among the 26 Best of Show quilts currently traveling with the Great Lakes Seaway Trail War of 1812 Quilt Show.

Afton writes:  "My inspiration was a panel common to three chintz appliqué quilts dating from 1790-1813 (Winterthur Museum Object 1958.0108 made by Margaret Nichols and International Quilt Study Center & Museum Objects 2008.040.0182 and 2007.034.0001.)"
"Using modern methods, I recreated a style characteristic of this time period: a tree of life center medallion surrounded by pieced borders.  The tree of life symbolizes healing, immortality and protection. It was a favorite design among American quilters from 1775 to the 1820s. During the early nineteenth century, American quilters used British-printed chintz fabrics to imitate Indian textiles imported to Europe in the 1500s."

Thursday, November 1, 2012

The Embargo Ends - Fashion Plates from the End of the War of 1812

Ackermann's Repository of Arts was published monthly from 1809-1829 in London. Each month's issue featured two fashion plates and other illustrations and articles covering a range of topics.

After the embargo's of the War of 1812 ended wealthy ladies would have cherished, once again, the arrival of monthly issues of Ackermann's Repository on packet boats docking from London and no doubt drooled over the fashion plates.

Issues often included embroidery patterns and the very earliest issues had actual fabric samples attached, which no doubt provided inspiration in the creation of Regency era fashions for the genteel lifestyle.

These delicate hand coloured watercolour illustrations, from 1815 at the conclusion of the War of 1812, depicting lovely fashions continue to inspire us two centuries later.

Let's begin the year as many gentlemen and ladies did: by spending the winter season in a bustle of activity and amusement in town, whether it be London or the "incomparable" Bath. With a busy schedule of concerts, theatre, balls, and other social engagements, an appropriate and fashionable wardrobe was essential.

1815 - Ackermann's Repository - January Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - January Issue




1815 - Ackermann's Repository - February Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - February Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - March Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - March Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - April Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - April Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - May Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - May Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - June Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - June Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - July Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository  - July Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - August Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - August Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - September Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - September Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - October Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - October Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - November Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - November Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - December Issue


1815 - Ackermann's Repository - December Issue